A whole piece of beef with a tunnel cut down the middle, packed with carrot, hard-boiled egg and a blended onion and garlic paste, tied, wrapped and simmered for three hours. Sliced across, every piece comes out with the filling in the centre. Six servings, and it starts the day before.
The tunnel is the difficult part. A long, thin boning knife worked in from both ends meets in the middle and gives you a channel you can pack; a short knife leaves a cone that only fills from one side. Whatever meat comes out goes back in as part of the filling, so nothing is wasted. Not every plastic wrap is rated for three hours in simmering water. Check the box, and if it does not say so, tie the roast firmly with twine and wrap it in foil alone, which holds the shape just as well. Let it rest before slicing. Cut it hot and the filling pushes out of the centre; cold, or at least warm, it slices cleanly and every round comes out with the egg and carrot set in the middle. This is a dish that is often made the day before and sliced cold, and it is what turns up on the table at Christmas and at family lunches.