Milk infused with cinnamon and lemon zest, half frozen to a slush, then folded into meringue. It sits between a drink and an ice cream, and it needs no machine. Serves four.
Stirring the milk with a fork every twenty minutes while it freezes is what makes the texture: it breaks the ice into crystals instead of letting it set into a solid block. Fold the meringue in rather than stirring it, and stop as soon as it looks even. Every stroke past that point knocks out the air you just spent five minutes beating into it. Raw egg white is a consideration for anyone pregnant or elderly; pasteurised whites from a carton whip perfectly well. Serve it straight away, since it separates as it stands.